While most of the hill stations in the Himalayan state – Uttaranchal were discovered and nurtured by the Britisher’s during the erstwhile British rule in India, there is a popular hill station of Uttaranchal whose existence can be traced back to the Vedic period. I am talking about the quaint hill town, Almora,situated at an altitude of 1650 meters and 66 kms away from Nainital. Almora is placed on the top of a ridge that is in the shape of a horse shoe and is 5kms long. Of the many things that Almora is famous for, the WelcomHeritage Khazanchand Mansion occupies a place of eminence having played host to such legendary guests such as Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, dancer Uday Shankar, Sitar Guru Ravi Shankar and others. I had chosen the Khazanchand Mansion to be my abode during a trip to the hill state in the beginning of 2009.
The drive from Delhi to Almora can take up to 10 hrs, via Rampur-Kathgodam-Bhimtal-Bhowali-Almora. But most convenient is the Ranikhet Express (leaves Old Delhi 10.45pm, arrives Kathgodam 6.30am). A taxi sent by the hotel will pick you up and bring you to Almora. Even otherwise, there are state run buses and cabs that ply regularly from Kathgodam to Almora and the two and a half hour drive through the winding mountain road that passes through the lush green hills and sleepy mountain hamlets is a treat for the eyes.
The Khazanchand Mansion is a double-storied heritage stone building that has has sprawling lawns on three sides and a breathtaking view of the Himalayas, including the peaks of Nandagunti, Trishul and Nanda Devi.
The Mansion’s structure has a magnificent frontage with stucco colonades, wooden flooring & ceiling and rough hewn stone walls giving it the flavour of an original British Colonial Architecture.
My room, a deluxe one, had a large ethnic bed, well-maintained private bathroom with running hot and cold water. The wooden flooring adds to the warmth of the room which features a blend of modern and ethnic furnishing. Nice color combinations have been used in their furnishings. Dining is one of the highlights of a stay at the Khazanchand Masion. They offer the most delectable of Indian and Continental cuisine along with some of the most exotic dishes from the local Kumaoni cuisine. Dinner is also served in the lush lawns of the mansion which makes it all the more enjoyable. The non-veg dishes of the Kumauni cuisine are a treat for the taste buds and very seldom does one come across such exotic flavors.
After a sumptuous meal, I set out for some sight-seeing around the town.The mall is the main avenue in Almora. The mall is a beautiful place which is filled with small eating joints and hotels.The cottages are of Indian style while the trimming is done in European style and the British bungalows bear faint resemblance to the Indian style with roofs of stone slabs.The bazaars of almora are very alluring with the milling crowd and stone flagged roads. I visited some of the prominent places of Almora during my stay here that include the famous Shiva temple dedicated to the god of destruction – lord Shiva. The temple complex is also home of Nanda Devi, the goddess of the chand dynasty and in the antechamber lies her temple.Almora fort,the most valuable contribution of the Chand Dynasty in Almora, this fort was converted in to a collectorate and from here I enjoyed a full vision of Almora and its surrounding suburbs. The sight of the lush greenery, glorious snow-capped mountain peaks and deep somber valleys, leaves you spell bound and I spent quite some time here gorging on the natural beauty of Almora. And DO NOT forget to buy the famous ‘Bal Mithai’, a sweet dish that is almost a legend here. It’s simply delicious!!
On the suggestion of the hotel staff, I also visited the Tamta Mohalla in Almora. Tamta mohalla gives a peek in the unique traditional copperware art of almora. Coppersmiths are in abundance in Almora and their works are complete piece of art. In addition to coppersmiths, Almora is also home to weavers. Traditional tweeds and shawls are another product of the local craft in Almora which reflect the artistic brilliance of the local craftsmen.The hotel also organizes treks to the nearby hills on request. For those who are relgiously inclined, there are many other old temples in the vicinity of Almora including the Chitai temple dedicated to Golu Devta, the Kosi temple build in12th century and the ancient Shiva temple at Someshwar at 35 kms. Jageshwar(38 kms) is believed to be one of the twelve Jyotirlinga’s in the country. The Swayambhu Linga named Nagesh is enshrined here. The temple complex has 124 shrines and hundreds of statues noted for exquisite craftsmanship.
Back in my room in the evening, I enjoyed a delightful drink as I watched the almost magical sunset over the resplendent hills far away in the horizon.
My visit to Almora was a collection of unforgettable moments.The enchanting beauty of the Himalayas, their bracing climate and the soothing green that envelops you, leave nothing more to be desired.
