The magnificence of the Himalayas is not just on account of its awe-inspiring height, but several geographical features like its complex geological structure, glaciers, deep gorges, and florid vegetation. And it is here in the folds of the magnificent Himalayas in the Kumaun region of the Himalayas in the state of Uttaranchal lies the globally acclaimed hill station – Nainital.Blessed with the most invigorating climate and enthralling scenic beauty, the town has emerged as a popular health resort and attracts tourists around the year. The lovely climate of Nainital blends a real beauty of nature with green paddock, wooded hills, picturesque valleys, and beautiful lakes. Popularly nick named as ‘lake district’, Nainital has numerous lakes in the vicinity.
I have made several trips to Nainital from New Delhi and have stayed at a couple of places there. My fondest memory is of my stay at the WelcomHeritage Belvedere Palace, the erstwhile summer retreat of the Raja of Awagarh and now a lovely heritage hotel. Belvedere Palace provides a panoramic view of the famous Naini Lake and is the epitome of regal lifestyle. After having booked my stay at the hotel, I started my travel from New Delhi.In the evening, I packed my luggage and boarded an air-conditioned luxury travel bus that took me to Haldwani. There’s also a night train from NewDelhi to Kathgodam the last train halt near to Nainital. Being a believer in “budget travel”, I boarded a Tata Sumo taxi from Haldwani bus stop which took me to Nainital. While there is the option of booking an entire car for yourself, I preferred to travel in the shared taxis which are easily available and which transport the local people from Haldwani to Nainital and the cost is just about 60 Rs(a little more than a dollar). The road to Nainital is a winding one, along the hill slopes and on the way you can see numerous small picturesque mountain villages dotting the hills. We stopped midway at a place called Juyalikot where there are a few shops offering all kinds of eatables, cool drinks etc. I chose to eat the local favorite, “Aloo Raita” which has a heady mix of boiled potatoes and curd with fine grated cucumber and a spice called “raye” which gives this dish a very tingy, sharp flavor and as the locals say, it clears your mind off the dizzy feeling that you get when you are driving up the mountains. It’s an absolutely mind-blowing local fare and costs you just about Rs 5, approximately one tenth of a dollar.
A very narrow, steep, winding “road” leads up to the hotel and the hotel’s entrance is gated and manned with guards wearing uniforms and red berets and they saluted smartly as I entered.The corridors and walls are adorned with all of the original taxidermy-mounted leopard heads staring down at you.I had chosen a lake facing room and from the window, I could feast on a glorious view of the pristine lake surrounded by hills on all sides with the many boats in its calm waters making it a picture postcard perfect.The room was a huge one with a king size bed that had fresh, inviting covers. The decor was distinctive with a mix of the colonial era and modern furnishings. The bathroom too was spacious and had decorative fittings with provision for hot and cold water. The room had other modern comforts such as telephone, television with satellite channels and room heating. The hotel also has a doctor on call and provides laundry services for its guests. They also accept all major credit cards for payment.
Feeling hungry,I first headed to the restaurant that served Indian, Chinese and Continental fare. I had a delicious continental breakfast as it was still some time for the buffet lunch. After some rest, I headed to the mall and the close by flea market owned by immigrants from Tibet popularly called Bhotiya market where you can bargain for imported goods and woolens. From the horse stand nearby, I undertook a horse ride to the Tiffin Top.This terraced hill top (2,292 m (7,520 ft)) on Ayarpatta hill is a 4 km (2 mi) hike from the town centre and commands a nice view of the neighboring country side.Back from Tiffine Top, I went straight to Sonam’s Momo Stall in the Bhotiya market that serves the most delicious ‘Momo’s’ that you could find in this area.After a rather heavy lunch of Momo’s, I decided to burn some energy paddling a boat in the placid Naini lake enjoying the magnificent views around.
The next day I undertook an excursion arranged by the hotel travel desk to the nearby hot spots such as the beautiful lakes at Bhimtal, Naukuchital and the land of seven lakes-Sat Tal, all within 35 kms of Nainital.There is also the not-to-be-missed cable car ride to Snow-view situated at an altitude of 2,270 m (7,448 ft) and located atop the Sher-ka-danda Ridge. On a clear day, it offers spectacular views of the snowbound high Himalayas, including Nanda Devi, Trisul and Nanda Kot.
In the late afternoon I enjoyed a hot cup of tea sitting near the window and watched the sun go down behind the snow view peak.
I ordered my dinner in my room and the tandoori dishes and the meat curry from the local Kumaoni cuisine was a treat for the taste buds. The service was prompt and discreet too.
Timelessness and creativity, new meanings are reborn; myriad emotions, changing, expressed and reflected with each passing moment – the pines, deodars, oaks, tiny mountain flowers, the jungle babbler, the undulating hills, the tree line, soothing breezes, all juxtaposed perfectly. This was magical Nainital, utterly unforgettable!
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