Mother Nature has showered her blessings on the state of Kerala by both hands. It is I believe, one of those few places on earth where one can enjoy all the facets of natural beauty be it the undulating hills, the long stretch of lovely beaches, verdant tea gardens, tropical forests, and the azure, placid backwaters.Europeans, primarily the Portuguese,Dutch and British, too were hooked on to their southern paradise after landing here tempted by its lucrative spice trade.Fort Cochin and Mattancherry are the key spots, where the city’s extraordinary history of foreign influence and settlement is reflected in an assortment of architectural styles. Many exotic and heritage buildings once owned by the foreign settlers have since changed hands and now been refurbished in to boutique hotels that offer a well-preserved experience of a lifestyle long gone by. The ancient charm of these heritage mansions continue to attract visitors and I too have a personal bias for such properties where you get a peep in to the lavish living of their enterprising owners.
After weighing my options between a stay at a modern star hotel and a 200 year old hotel, once owned by a Portuguese family, I found the scales of choice inclined towards the latter.So I packed my bags and boarded the flight to Cochin. At the airport, a waiting car picked me up and after dribbling through the busy roads of Cochin for about an hour, I stood at the gates of the splendid Old Courtyard Hotel in Fort Cochin.
As I entered the huge wooden door, I was immediately transported to the elegance and beauty of a by-gone era.The ancient arches and alcoves around an enchanting courtyard gave the building a character.All the eight guest rooms were located on two floors in wings that lead off the central cobblestone courtyard.There was an ancient but well looked after mango tree in the courtyard. The mango tree was a sort of a living ecosystem with its many residents that enjoyed a safe stay in its many branches including a variety of birds and the darting squirrels.One of the squirrels, briefly paused and looked at me;it appeared to be sizing me before darting off. Apparently, they were used to human company and I was okayed.
We climbed through a lovely wooden staircase to reach my room. It was large one with high-beamed ceilings and period decor.The owners had retained the original floor and I am so glad they did, the feel of the smooth wood against the feet is something else.The bedroom floors were tiled with heavy wood and furnished with unique old furniture like four poster beds with mirrors. The tiles fitted in the wood work gives the ambience of an old 18 th century interior imparting both luxury and comfort as a reminder of a glorious bygone era. There was a original Portuguese four poster bed and a antique wardrobe. The bathroom was spacious with contemporary fittings.
But what made the Old Courtyard Hotel special was the dining experience.Adjacent to the courtyard is a semi-enclosed restaurant serving a wide range of cuisines. Rose, the lovely hostess was culinary genius who is celebrated for her cheese cake. They had on offer French, Italian, Spanish, Philippians or Thai cuisines along with Indian cuisine and the emphasis was on sea food that was always freshly sourced.Lamb chops and spaghetti bolognaise, chicken curries, mussels and Pasta dishes occupy the place of pride.I really relished prawn gambas on toast, no doubt as fattening as it was succulent.
The hotel is set in one of the main among many narrow streets that lead towards many historically important shrines and forts. Both sides of the lane is filled with large and small shops offering curios antique collections, refreshments etc I visited the Mattancherry Palace, a 16th-century Dutch building whose interior quad now houses a Hindu temple.Close by is India’s oldest church, St Francis, built in 1503 by the Portuguese (it briefly housed the remains of Vasco de Gama, who died here). And it’s not bad idea at all to wander down to the coast and stroll along the sand to watch the sun set.
In the evening, everyone would sit under the mango tree in the courtyard and sip their favorite cup of hot coffee or cardamom tea as local artists engaged us in folk art performances on the open-air cobbled courtyard.
I was completely bowled over by the desserts made by Rose and even managed to get her to reveal some of her secret recipes. They sure understood the strong bond between good food and people’s hearts.
